The remote island only accessible by boat that Hollywood almost ruined

Seventeen years ago, Hollywood plucked a tiny Greek island from obscurity and put it on the map. But it hasn’t been affected by fame. In fact, things never really changed. 

We are, of course, talking about Skopelos, a craggy island in the Aegean Sea that served as the filming location of Mamma Mia!, the 2008 musical rom-com based on the songs of ABBA.

Verdant hills and turquoise water provide an idyllic backdrop to Sophie and Sky’s iconic love story, but there’s more to this island than stunning scenery.

Skopelos belongs to the Northern Sporades, a group of islands located just east of mainland Greece. Rich with ancient histroy, it dates back to the late Bronze Age, when it was colonised by Cretans.

Embroidered with golden beaches, traditional domed churches and whitewashed villages, for decades, Skopelos felt like a land that time forgot.

But in recent years, the island has drawn a growing number of tourists. In 2023, record-breaking numbers descended on its shores, with 169,216 arrivals marking a 17% rise on the previous year.

This might be a drop in the ocean compared to Santorini’s 3.4 million, but as more travellers swap tourist hotspots for off-the-beaten-path destinations, Skopelos has all the necessary ingredients to become a star.

And while the ‘Mamma Mia! effect’ might be the selling point that draws people to this Mediterranean jewel, 300 days of uninterrupted sunshine, slower pace of life and unspoiled landscapes are why they keep coming back.

Getting to Skopelos and best time to visit

Skopelos’ tourist season begins in May and runs until late October. The cooler months belong to locals.

We visited in July, when the Mediterranean climate delivers blissful daily averages of 27°C.

Skopelos is expensive to get to compared to other Greek islands, especially during high season.

There is no airport on the island, which means you must fly to the neighbouring island of Skiathos, then take a ferry to your final destination. 

To keep costs down, we flew from London Stansted via Pisa with easyJet. During peak season, return fares start from €162 (£135) per person, and the journey takes around six hours.

However, you can fly direct, just expect prices to be steeper. Major UK airports including London Gatwick, Manchester and Birmingham all operate routes to Skiathos with airlines such as easyJet, Jet2 and TUI.

Return fares average around €355 (£296) during the summer, but cut the journey time by half.

An unspoiled landscape

It’s not surprising the Mamma Mia! producers chose this 96.3 km² patch of paradise as their base. The film is also the perfect example of a Hollywood production squad respecting the location, its residents, and natural beauty.

The famous beach bar and jetty, where Tanya belts out ‘Does Your Mother Know,’ was built on Kastani beach on the west of the island. After filming wrapped, the sets were removed and the area restored.

Surrounded by lush pine trees, the beach remains quiet and uncommercialised — the only activity is a handful of sun-worshippers who lounge on the sand, occasionally dragging themselves for a dip in the water.

The same goes for the Chapel of Agios Ioannis, an isolated church on a barren sea rock where Donna famously married Sam.

Despite being an iconic movie location — providing magical views of Skopelos and the neighbouring island of Alonissos — visitors continue to respect the religious setting. After climbing the 223 steps carved into stone, tourists take photos, light a candle in the chapel, and leave without a trace. 

Panormos Beach on Skopelos’ west coast is another unspoiled stretch. Once an ancient Greek harbour, we reached this destination by travelling like locals on a €5 (£4) return bus from Skopelos Town. If you’d rather get a taxi, a one-way journey costs around €20 (£16).

Edging onto the seafront, we immediately got the ‘Greek paradise’ feeling everyone talks about.

White pebbles stretch into shimmering ocean, and lush greenery surrounds the bay, which is lined with traditional tavernas serving stewed plums — a Skopelos delicacy.

After working up an appetite, we stopped at the family-run Nikos Taverna and ordered baked garlic aubergine, stuffed calamari, orzo pasta and a Greek salad. With a Mythos beer and a small carafe of white wine, the bill came to around €25 (£20) — not bad when the view is like a scene from a postcard.

Don’t forget to try the traditional Skopelos cheese pie, made in a frying pan and served with honey. It’s a favourite among locals, and you’ll find it at almost every restaurant or cafe on the island.

Conscious tourism

For centuries, agriculture was Skopelos’ main source of industry. While the olive oil business is still a major asset — just like it is for many Greek islands — today, the island relies almost entirely on tourism.

While 2023 brought more visitors than ever before, the island has been able to cope with the demand.

Across the water in Skiathos, however, it’s a different story.

Skiathos received more than 450,000 tourists in 2023, leading hoteliers on the island to raise concerns that over-tourism is directly impacting their local economy.

Increases in the stayover duty and the Climate Resilience Fee, taxes charged to visitors in Greece, are making life difficult for both residents and tourists.

Meanwhile, Skopelos is less accessible and has less tourist infrastructures than its neighbour, allowing it to escape much of the impact of over-tourism.

Tradition and religion are protected

A holiday in Skopelos is more than hopping from beach to beach. There’s a strong culture to lean into, from food to religion. The island is home to many picturesque churches and monasteries — all of which are at the centre of every celebration. 

And the people of Skopelos know how to throw a party. We accidentally crashed a wedding that seemed to be attended by the entire town, and saw a waitress who had served us lunch hours before, throwing confetti over the newlyweds before running back to the harbour to finish her shift.

And there are plenty of events on the island you don’t need to crash.

Throughout the year, locals organise festivals to honour their saints, with festivities taking place across the island.

The feast of Agios Reginos, the patron saint of Skopelos, takes place each year on February 25; there’s also the summer Loizia Festival in Glossa, dedicated to one of the most famous composers in Greece, Manos Loizos.

If you’re in the market for free booze and a boogie, The Wine Festival, also in the village of Glossa, takes place in the middle of September. Visitors are offered free wine, and traditional dancing lasts until the early hours.

Skopelos is proof that pop culture can coexist with tradition — and that respectful tourism is possible.

With friendly locals, delicious food, pretty towns, stunning beaches, and exceptional natural beauty, this hidden jewel will instantly have your heart. I know it’s left a lasting impression on mine.

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