Jersey is a slightly confusing, split-personality kind of place. While driving – on the left – from the airport to the capital St Helier, the houses look like those you’d find in any British town.
Then you’re sitting outside the Cock & Bottle – which comes over as very English – in a square that could easily be in Normandy. Which is only 14 miles away, after all.
A French food market with all the meats and cheeses is there and a big branch of Boots just beyond it. Then you charge your phone but it’s a French socket. And then there’s an English one over there.
The vibe, though, is predominantly British, from the rugged coastline, Elizabeth Castle – where Charles II holed up during the Civil War – to, possibly somewhere, local hero and actor Henry Cavill.
I was in Jersey – the largest of the Channel Islands – to celebrate Pride. Each year, Jersey and Guernsey take turns in hosting the festivities, organised by each island’s branch of Liberate, the equality and diversity charity.
While the Channel Islands have a combined population of around just 170,000 (to put that into context, there are 9.7million people in London), the LGBTQ+ celebrations may be on a smaller scale – but they’re just as joyful.
As a seasoned Pride go-er I have travelled far and wide to celebrate with my community. I never miss London and Manchester, and over the years I’ve celebrated in LA, Toronto, Stockholm and Sydney – to name just a few. I couldn’t wait to see what this quirky little island had on offer.
Our party starts as soon as we sail over. We join Pride celebrations in People’s Park, which is like a village fete in rainbow colours. There’s a bit of a funfair, bars and food trucks, a stage with local talent turning out disco covers of Upside Down and Best Of My Love and a big area for children.
It’s clear that there aren’t enough LGBTQ+ people to go round on Jersey, and many of these lovely rainbowed-up folk are straight families who have come along for the ride.
And they’re welcome. It’s great to see a generation of tiny tots for whom girls smooching and men in short shorts with showgirls head-dresses are part of a good day out.
That night everyone lets loose at the Pride after-party in the Drift bar at the Royal Yacht Hotel on St Helier’s main square – which isn’t very main.
Dressed up to the nines, tens and beyond, under a neon sign that states ‘A Little Party Never Killed Nobody’, imported drag queens come out to entertain, insult, dazzle and disturb – in equal measure.
They do Kylie Minogue in ways that Kylie herself couldn’t. Can she jump from a stage into a full splits? Don’t think so.
The same characters fill a perfectly respectable hotel the next afternoon at the Drag Brunch, which isn’t bottomless – unless you count some of these outfits.
As the sun blazes through the blinds and we’re regaled with everything from Celine Dion to Lizzo, with lots of hip-busting splits from high places, you realise this is a special thing for the normally sedate St Helier.
You can tell how excited its residents are when a London drag queen reviews their lunches over the microphone as they return from the buffet.
When Pride isn’t in full flow, this is a grown-up place of quiet, sandy beaches with quirky little beach cafés.
At one, The Good Egg, you can order an amazing fried breakfast with plenty of vegan options and gaze out over the sands.
And with so much money on the island – the main drag queen taunts the locals by calling them ‘tax-dodging bitches’ – there’s no shortage of smart places to eat.
At the top end of the spectrum, you have the Michelin-starred Bohemia restaurant in our hotel – the Club – where the food is off the scale and 14 courses of a tasting menu take you to culinary brilliance.
The best of the rest
Pride month or not, there’s lots to see and do in Jersey that makes it the perfect weekend break.
- Jersey Seafaris offer RIB boat tours, offering a more exhilarating way to see the islands. There’s a variety of excursions to pick from, but perhaps the most popular is a trip to The Ecrehous – a small group of islands just eight miles from France. Cruise around spot the wildlife – you might even see some dolphins. Ask your captain to finish off with some doughnuts – oh, and they let you bring booze on board.
- While the capital of Jersey is St Hellier, a 90 minute coastal walk (or a cycle if you want to hire bikes) will take you to St Aubin, a quaint harbour town. Take a stroll around the cute streets, and if you’re hungry, favourite restaurants include The Boat House and The Muddy Duck. Don’t forget to pop in for a pint at the Trafalgar Inn, where there’s live music (and a rowdy clientele) at the weekends.
- Hop on a bus from St Hellier to head some of Jersey’s most beautiful beaches. St Brelades is one of the island’s most beloved – and ideal if you fancy a dip on a hot day. Elsewhere, there’s the Portelet – book at table at the Portelet Inn on the cliffside, and enjoy the stunning views.
- During WWII, Jersey was occupied by the Germans. The Jersey War Tunnels, built by the Germans using slave labour, were over 1,000m long and 50m underground. The vast network were built allow the German occupying infantry to withstand Allied air raids. In 1943, it was converted into an emergency hospital. Now, there’s a fascinating exhibition for tourists to learn and explore.
So given the sedate nature of Jersey, how are Pride partygoers welcomed by locals? We soon find out, when a group of us are driven by a 70-year-old taxi driver.
Far from pursing his lips in disapproval, he reveals he’s spent the day at Pride listening to lesbian poetry with his pansexual daughter, which is nice in a dad.
Then it turns out he’s bisexual and that he and his wife are into the swinging scene – yes in their 60s and 70s – and will happily be prepared to tell his passengers all about it.
‘Well, you’ve got to live your life, haven’t you?’ he says, as he drops us off at The Royal Yacht.
Jersey may be an easy-to-use holiday spot of history and home comforts – with its rolling countryside, endless beaches, museums and wine estates – but it feels as though there’s a lot more to it than meets the eye.
Getting there
Condor Ferries offers two routes to St Helier, sailing from Poole and Portsmouth. Prices for a return trip start at £90 per person. To book, visit Condor Ferries.
Alternatively, flights to Jersey airport are available with easyJet – return flights start at from as little as £52 per person (although prices may vary). To book, visit EasyJet.
Where to stay
Rooms at the Club Hotel & Spa in St Helier start at £146 per night for a deluxe double room with breakfast. To book, visit The Club Jersey.
This year, Channel Islands Pride will be held in Guernsey on 7 September. It returns to Jersey in 2025.
