I went to Majorca for sun, sea and sangria — but I found something I was missing

Majorca has become known as the land of sun, sea and sangria, and this trifecta is why visitors have flocked to the Spanish island in their droves for years. 

While other destinations are about meeting the locals and soaking up the culture, this holiday spot is primarily seen by Brits as an escape for those of us who regularly wake up to fifty shades of grey skies.

And after two and a half hours zipping through clouds and putting the UK behind me, it was sigh of relief as I pulled up my window shutter to be greeted by crisp blue sky as my plane descended to Majorcan soil.

The Spanish Balearic island was already living up to its promise and doing what it said on the tin, which was all I needed – or so I thought.

Because, just a couple hours later, after dumping my suitcase (which was 99.9% filled with bikinis) in my room at the swanky TUI BLUE Sensatori Biomar hotel in Sa Coma, something unexpected happened.

I found myself, not on some beach knocking back the Aperols, but in the middle of a lush tropical forest in a pair of leggings, flat-soled Converse trainers and a tank top – all of which I’d packed for the one 7am yoga class I was booked to do, but was never going to attend, obviously.

When I asked for ‘surprise activities’ I was thinking more cocktail making by the pool, and the best sun lounger the hotel had to offer (close to the bar).

But here I was: on a rigorous hike in the Natural Reserve Catell de la Punta de n’Amer with some equally confused ‘hikers’ also unexpectedly dragged out of their comfort zone.

Turns out our hotel was just on the edge of this protected, hidden reserve and only a few minutes walk away, which gave the impression it would be a walk in the park. But it soon became clear that this would be no leisurely stroll.

My dodgy left knee was about to be tested, as this was gearing up to be a proper adventure through a legit and vast tropical forest.

Laziness, who I introduce to people as my significant other, encouraged me to tell the guide that I was already suffering from jet lag and needed to head back to recuperate… for a few days. 

But, then he asked: ‘What time is it in the UK? You guys are just an hour behind, right? That’s great.’ I watched hopelessly as my jet lag out of jail free card vanished into thin air.

Soldiering on, the trek took us through meandering shrubbery on carved-out paths, where we were joined by tortoises sneakily peeking at us through their shells, while I could tell one flock of exotic birds that were tweeting madly were asking how we managed to fly south in the winter without wings.

Then some magic happened. I started to enjoy this random, unexpected excursion as I lapped up the fauna and flora and happened upon a secret ocean.

In a cacophony of greenery, the blue pierced through and as I teetered down a rocky walkway, I was stopped in my tracks by the drama of its waves lashing against giant rocks as it frothed into mountains of white at the impact.

Pleased with himself, the guide did well to not give this away beforehand – as what a treat to ‘happen upon it’. I felt I was in on an epic secret as he told me most visitors to Majorca miss out on it.

Suddenly, my painful feet felt like they were floating on Cloud Nine.

For this gem to be unassumingly tucked away a few minutes walk from my hotel? Mind-blowing. 

A few hours after, it was back to the original plan – floating to and forth from a Sangria perched on the side of a private infinity plunge pool, which overlooked the ocean on my room’s balcony.

This hotel, TUI BLUE Sensatori Biomar, was also surprising. It’s an hour-and-a-half drive from Palma airport. And, for some reference, it’s a 20-minute drive from the Love Island villa.

But there are no couples kicking off or bringing the drama – or screaming kids for that matter.

I’m not normally an all-inclusive type of girl. But this isn’t your average tiny plastic cups spilling over with watered down rum as over enthusiastic folks force you to join a conga line, type all-inclusive.

No, it feels like you’re on an exclusive, nothing-is-free private resort that would be triple the cost.

And my suite being in the serene, adults-only section at the other side of the resort, hidden from the family bit, was just what the travel gods ordered.  

If, like me, you’re into crisp, modern decor, that plunge pool I mentioned, and the comforts of a comfy bed, floating bath and cushy sofa – then you would’ve been obsessed with my room.

So after chilling, eating, swimming and sleeping, the next morning I was raring to go and see what other surprises my guide had up his short sleeves.

Travel-sickness pill popped and I was on my way along the more than 50 twisty-turns on the precipitous, Sa Calobra road.

The van’s windows became the canvases for the perennial changing landscapes of visually stunning Tramuntana Mountains, beaches and farms, sandwiching the vehicle for eight miles. 

The route, which is a stretch of a narrow road called the Torrent de Pareis, is popular amongst cyclists and daredevils.

Whisking by them in my air conditioned cocoon, I wondered if they were having second thoughts.

And when we reached our destination, what a sight to behold! A surreal, overwhelming 360 view of the rugged coastline illuminated by the piercing sun.

By the time you gather your breath and come to terms with the fact that what you are seeing is not superimposed or AI, you may need a drink. 

Fortunately, there are an array of local bars and, if you’ve worked up an appetite – you can tuck into yummy dishes such as a hearty paella, which won’t set you back more than a fiver, at the string of restaurants in the nearby seaside town.

After the chow down, I hit the warm but refreshing Sa Calobra beach for a bit of a swim, before hopping on a short catamaran ride from there, which cruised past cliffs and caves to the quiet, off-the beaten track harbour town, Port de Soller.

There I explored the picture postcard village with its quaint cafes along the marina.

Next was the vintage tram journey I never knew i needed into town. Surely Brits on holiday avoid trains like the plague – but this was no awful, crammed Northern Line.

Dating back to 1913, these pristine, well preserved, shiny, pretty wooden things are a fun must-do as they offer a feast for the eyes as they zip through forests, orange groves and past gorgeous local homes that will bring out your excited inner child. 

The vintage tram ride, which cost just £30 took us from the quaint Soller to Port de Soller, while the full day Majorca Tour with Port de Soller and Sa Calobra starts from £65 per person.

Once back at the hotel after an epic second day, I dined at Azafran, which serves up tasty Spanish cuisine and is one of their seven diverse a la carte restaurants.

Guests are given one complimentary dinner at one of the restaurants, but can expect to pay around £25/£30 a head for three course meal on non-comp.

After over-indulging, it was back to my inviting bed to rest up to see Palma the next day.

Palma is Mallorca’s gorgeous capital, where even the McDonalds’ McCafe looks like a pretty little patisserie.

I embarked on a land and sea guided tour of the city, which included some of its ‘hidden’ bits. 

The Palma Walking Tour and Boat Cruise (from £34 per person) around the city takes you to spots such as the awe-inspiring Palma Cathedral with multicoloured light from its stained-glass windows. The Gothic Santa Maria Cathedral was renovated in part by the iconic Gaudí.

The Cathedral of Santa Maria of Palma, more commonly called La Seu, is a Gothic Roman Catholic cathedral in Palma. Construction on it commenced under King James I of Aragon in 1229, yet its completion didn’t occur until 1601.

Positioned within Palma’s ancient city, it crowns the site once occupied by the Roman citadel.

I also visited Castell de sa Punta de n’Amer – a striking 17th-century fortification that was built to protect the region from pirates.

A tour of its interior showed off the secret staircase that led to the roof which offered a striking view of the picturesque surroundings.

Palma is not just full of historic landmarks, but also abuzz with vibrant markets and countless dining spots nestled in  old-town architecture. There are also shopping lovers, designers and local boutiques.

I found my new favourite restaurant in Ombu, where I dined on the pebble walkway indulging in delectable tapas and cocktails.

Set opposite the Plaza de la Reina fountain, Ombu serves up exquisite Andalusian-style squid, marinated Iberian pork, and crispy tempura prawns for sharing and won’t set you back more than £15 each for all that share-fare.

For a taste of authentic Spanish wine, a visit to Bodega Ramanya in Santa María del Camí is also a must.

Hidden behind the doors of an unassuming house lies a winery founded and run by the Ramis family. Here, native grapes are grown, and historic Majorcan artefacts are curated for the museum – so a feast for your eyes and palette. 

Hosted by the charming matriarch, Magdalena, guests are treated to a feast of bread, cheese, meats, and homemade olive oil, paired with fruity young wines.

Magdalena’s humorous anecdotes, often involving witches and accompanied by her donning a conical hat, add an unforgettable touch to the experience. 

She bid farewell saying:”Salut I força al canut!” an expression we were told means health, strength, power, and wealth.

I later realised why her family was inexplicably in hysterics after the toast. The the true meaning, actually translates to “good strength to your balls!”

The cheeky Majorca Wine Tour is £46 per person. Our tour wrapped up with a cruise around the bay, which gave an even better perspective of the striking cathedral from a different perspective. 

It was back to my base at the hotel to do that one last eat, sleep and, of course, that swim in that plunge pool with you know what chilling at the edge of it.  

As I reflected on my too-short time in this little island, the word magical was all I could sum it up with. As what else could describe what was meant to be a ‘meh’ getaway, turning into one of your favourite adventures, ever.

Majorca can give you what you want, but if you’re lucky, just may give you what you need.

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